St Jean de Luz. 43 degrees.38'.8"North, 1 degree 66' 31"
The old part of what was once a fishing village is still a charming place to be. It is now unfortunately hemmed in by resort style development but the beach and harbour are still great places to walk around.
We arrived a bit late in the evening and sat down to eat at the first place we came across. Forgetting this was now Basque country and 8pm is not late. We had a great meal, the food was simple and fresh with the menu in Basque as well as french. The first beer when arriving somewhere new is always one of travels great pleasures.
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Our first eatery |
A new town a new market and this one is a beauty. The paella's bubbling away as we walked around to check out everything from the mushrooms to the nougat stall to the spice and vanilla stall. The figs are semi dried and dusted in semolina (I think and are the best we've tasted). We sort of stuffed our timing as we kept walking around and around the market and then decided we should eat only to find all the paella's but one finished. The squid one we bought was cool but still delicious. A lesson learnt, get in early.
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The nougat guy |
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Vanilla |
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You know that it lived |
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Mushrooms and more mushrooms |
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One of the Paella stands |
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Cheeses are very different to those of Brittany |
The Church of St John the Baptist was completed in 1685 though Louis XIV married Marie there in 1660 to put an end to the French Spanish wars. the interior is mostly timber including the altar. It also has separate entrances for the men and women, with the men upstairs (though I don't know if this still happens. It was happening when I was here 40 odd year ago).
Again to short a visit, especially after discovering another eatery that served affordable fresh food. The white anchovies were special. How good it would be to have an apartment to cook in and visit the market for ingredients.
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The beach set up is almost English in its look |
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Harbour entrance
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